A Couple Things to Know- Before Planting

 If you are reading this then you are probably new to the Dahlia Flowers.  Here are a couple things it is helpful to understand-

Dahlias and frost don't mix.  Plant them in the ground once the soil has warmed--the internet says warmed to 60 degrees.  I just find you can plant after the threat of frost has passed for your area.  This is determined by looking up your zone, or just calling your local extension office, or pretty much asking anyone who plants tomatoes.  For my area it is May 15th.  

Dahlias and too much water in the first couple weeks don't do well.  Do not water the tubers once they are planted until you see the leaves come up.  They really can rot.   If you are wanting to plant in an area that has water you can't turn off (which many have this issue), I recommend starting the Dahlias inside.  They are a really easy plant to pre start.  I would put the tuber in a 6 inch or so pot, add 2 parts soil and 1 part peat moss, mixed together.   Place the tuber about 2 inches under dirt.  Place in a convenient area to check regularly.  I do squirt a little water on top after planting.  Then just monitor the dirt to make sure it isn't too dry, and squirt a little water every couple days at most.  In about 2 weeks the green will start peaking out.  After that water more frequently, I still squirt the water with a water bottle.  Once you have a plant that has some leaves growing above the ground you can start setting the pot outside for hours at a time so it adjusts to the weather.  Once you can leave it out overnight and it does well, it is ready to plant in the ground.  Dig at least a 6 inch hole and bury some the tuber plus extra part of the green in the ground.  Now it should be okay with your regular watering. 

Dahlias and weed killer don't mix.  This is probably one of the most important things to understand.  The weed killer you use on your lawns, and your regular flower beds will kill the dahlia plants.  I did a test and tried using our cut grass as a weed prevention on a couple dahlia plants, and it immediately started killing the dahlia plant.  So you want to be very careful about keeping all weed prevention products (except weed barrier) away from your Dahlia Plants.  This also means you need to be careful about additives that you add to your soil.  

Dahlias do really well with manure and peat moss added to your soil.  I keep it simple and buy bags of cow manure, and organic peat moss to mix in with my soil.  I also like a little bone meal mixed with the dirt when I plant the tubers.  

If you have a choice, it is better to water the soil than to use a sprinkler that puts water on the foliage.  Just helps prevent some issues.

Most Dahlias will need a support system.  It doesn't need to be complicated.  If you want to put in one stake as you plant your tuber that works.  Or you can use cages.  I use plastic netting because I plant mine in rows.  

Pinching really gives you a better dahlia plant, and gives you more blooms.  When the plant is about 10 inches with about 4 sets of leaves, I snap the very middle growth off the plant.  It is that simple.

You don't have to dig up your Dahlias at the end of the season if they are an annual in your area.  Instead, cut them back once they die and let the ground have some extra nutrients as it slowly breaks down.  And in the Spring, order some new dahlia tubers from me to plant in their place.  As a side note, I have multiple people who have shared that when they plant next to the house, the dahlias have been perennials over several years.  Also, some people cut the plant back after the first frost, and cover the ground with plastic and mulch, and they become perennials for several years.  Another way is to grow in large grow bags and then just pull them into the garage once the first frost hits.  This has worked great for me.